Care Instructions for all grilles & finishes

Most of our standard range of grilles are intended for interior domestic or commercial use. Some of them are of a delicate design and are made from materials with finishes that are sensitive to atmospheric conditions.  Due to these factors it is important that grilles are fitted into their intended location as soon after their manufacture as possible as storage in other locations can lead to accelerated tarnishing and damage for which we cannot be held responsible. 

 
Please see our terms and conditions and complains policy in respect of how our liability is limited and what we require from you in the unlikely event that there is a defect in our products.
 
  
CARE INSTRUCTIONS FOR POLISHED FINISHES:
 
SATIN BRASS  
Either leave them to patinate naturally, or if a bright finish is required, use a brass polish such as ‘Brasso’ together with a soft dry cloth. For satin brass only, a light abrasive material such as scotch bright or wire wool can be used in line with the grain. Apply occasional wax polish spray using a soft cloth.
 
MIRROR BRASS
Either leave them to patinate naturally, or if a bright finish is required, use a brass polish such as ‘Brasso’ together with a soft dry cloth. Apply occasional wax polish spray using a soft cloth. Never use any kind of abrasive material or liquid
  
BRIGHT / SATIN STAINLESS STEEL
Use a stainless-steel polish together with a soft dry cloth.
 
BRIGHT / SATIN NICKEL
Use a chrome polish together with a soft dry cloth.
 
 
CARE INSTRUCTIONS FOR PATINATED FINISHES:
 
ANTIQUE BRASS / BRONZED / ANTIQUE BRONZE:
Apply occasional wax polish spray using a soft cloth. Never use any kind of abrasive material or liquid.
 
PEWTER:
Apply occasional wax polish spray using a soft cloth. Never use any kind of abrasive material or liquid 
 
 
UNDERSTANDING PATINATION:
Patination is a process by which chemicals are used to accelerate the natural ageing by achieving oxidised finishes that give the impression of old materials in minutes instead of years. The antique and bronze style finishes that can be achieved rely on the reaction between the surface of the metal and the chemicals being applied to it. This reaction is subject to numerous influences such as the strength and temperature of the chemicals being used, the precise chemical content of the batch of metal they are being applied to, the temperature they both are, the air temperature, and the mood of the applicator. As such, whilst we use over a century of experience to achieve the best finish possible, metal patination does not result in an even finish or colour of the same standard as more modern surface treatments such as spray painting. When metals age naturally, they do not do so evenly. The natural ageing process can be affected by just as many if not more factors than the accelerated ageing process. As the purpose of patination is generally to give the impression of the object being naturally older than it actually is, it should not be of one uniform appearance across its entire surface as if the colour has been sprayed on. 
Unsealed patinated finishes will continue to ‘evolve’ naturally with time, just as they would, if the patination was occurring naturally over many years. 
A wax polish, every now and then can enhance the lustre and apparent depth of a finish adding to its appeal but care must be taken not to rub too hard when polishing. 
If a higher degree of permanency is required, then a lacquer over the patinated surface should be considered. We offer low sheen lacquers, for those who need it but purists say that even those detract slightly from the true metal look and feel of the finish and prefer their metal to be left to age and wear realistically. If more stable and uniform finishes are required then powder or other modern coatings should be considered, but these are significantly less realistically metallic. 
 
If your grilles or frames suffer stain or scratching damage, and a full re-polish is not practical, we recommend you use a wax polish around the affected area to reduce the visibility of the problem, and to protect it from further damage.  
 
COPPER ALLOYS - COLOUR:
Bronzes and brasses are not a pure, elemental metals. They are alloys of copper and a variety of other elements such as tin, zinc, iron, lead, manganese, phosphorus, aluminium, nickel, silicon, antimony, bismuth, arsenic and sulphur. The amounts of each element contained in a copper alloy define which type it is, but those quantities are not 100% precise. They fall within a range of maximums and minimums. Whilst it is possible to say that in general one bronze is lighter or darker or more yellow (silicone bronze) or more-pink in colour (leaded gunmetal bronze) than another, in practice these descriptions cannot be relied upon, as chemical contents may vary between batches of raw materials, making a typically yellow one, redder or a typically red one, yellower. Chemical content is only one factor that can affect the colour. It can also be affected by the heat of the pour during casting or the temperature of the raw materials during the forming and/or cutting processes. The heat may have to be adjusted depending on the chemical content of the batch of raw material, and the intricacy of the pattern for cut panels. The ambient temperature, humidity, cooling rate, age of the raw materials, cutting methods and the materials from which the moulds are made can all also affect colour. Whilst we use over a century of experience to control for these variances, with the aim of keeping variations to an acceptable and often indistinguishable minimum, no two batches can ever be guaranteed to be identical. The best way to ensure consistency is to ensure that each order is made in the same batch. Most bronze workers will not mention these variations regarding them as too small to bother with or notice. Due to the high level of quality control that we undertake, and the high standard expected by our clients we feel it should be mentioned. 
 
FLOOR GRILLES:
As with all our grilles we recommend that they are fitted in their final intended location as soon as possible. Our standard floor grilles are designed for dry internal use only. Please let us know if you require grilles for external or any kind of wet or damp area use. These will be made from different materials with an alternative set of finishes.
 
They should not be washed with water or liquid cleaners, either during storage or when in use. Please use a soft damp cloth if muddy, otherwise a soft dry cloth or dry floor mop should keep them dust free. An occasional buff with a wax polish will keep them looking their best. If the surrounding floor needs to be washed, care must be taken to prevent them getting wet. They should be removed to a location where there is no risk of them getting wet during that process. 
 
Unless you have ordered grilles that are specifically designed for a damp environment please ensure they are never stored in one and that they are not subject to damp once they are fitted. They must be kept dry.
 
Take particular care of the decorative face and make sure that the grilles are not placed face down on any surface or stacked on top of or against each other without protection between them. 
 
AGEING:
There are two actions which work against each other on all metal floor grilles: The atmospheric conditions darkening them and the soles of shoes polishing them. This is the natural and historically accurate process, generally regarded as desirable in historic settings as it eventually leads to the grilles looking like they have always been there. Only an artificial, modern coating such as paint or galvanising will prevent that ageing process, but those finishes are not advised for floor grilles, especially in historic settings. 
 
 

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